Carrie Bradshaw's look for less

If, like me, you read fashion magazines, you cannot have missed the information that Matthew Williamson is the latest designer to collaborate with H&M.

What I failed to know was that, even one year after the release of Sex and the City: The Movie, the Carrie Bradshaw look - i.e. as featured in the movie - still prevailed. Why else would Williamson design a dress highly inspired from the pink dress she wore in the movie and a similar studded belt?

Strangely, the H&M dress seems to be of better quality and cut than the number - certainly a designer item- worn by Carrie as the fabric is all crinkled at the front.

Personally, I always recommend wearing tulip shape skirts/dresses. It is broad on the hips and thus comfortable but more to the point, most of us can wear it and look good in it. Of course, to wear anything short, one has to have nice legs.

Below, find how to emulate that look. Nothing easier.
The shoes though, are customized: Patricia Field explained she added a mesh upper to the Dior black pumps. Personally, I don't really like that pink dress with these shoes as they shorten the leg because of the dress's length.

Why not wear any gladiator heel like the character who couldn't get enough of the gladiator heels Extreme by Dior she wore throughout the movie. The Bakers and the New Look number were the closest to it but gladiator heels are everywhere in many variations:

Look of the week: LE NEO-SAROUEL

Zara features a few sarouels in the current line after it has been seen in Hermes, Rick Owens, Nina Ricci, Kenzo etc summer and winter collections.

Although it may appeal essentially to a younger crowd, the sarouel is very comfortable and can reveal itself as one of the most flattering and elegant trousers of the season.

Here are a few ideas about how to sport themost fashionable piece of the season.

A designer to follow: Kara Ross

As far as new designers go, Kara Ross already has made a name for herself and her work has been featured in magazines such as Vogue US or Harpers BazaarUS. There is very little doubt that her style will translate overseas.

The designer has a real ability in retouching the classics and add a modern twist. Her pieces are strong yet understated. A look that works for everyday as well as for evenings.

Her rings and cuffs are especially vibrant and would highlight most black and boring wardrobes. Let's not forget a lovely and simple but remarkable collection of bags as well.

Let's wait and see but it would be a shame if no one saw the potential in Kara's collection.

Prices vary between 150£ to much more...
www.kararossny.com

I've got croc under my skin

Long a staple of luxury and style combined, crocodile has recently made a recurrent apparition in Fashion collections to the point where Crocodile went almost boring. That was before Bruno Frisoni, the designer for Roger Vivier came into the picture.

This pair of sculptural pair of sandals is spectacular and encompasses everything that stands for great design: a fabulous balance as the top of the straps go to the right level for a tiny ankle and the web of straps gives a lightness to the shoe that looks otherwise quite imposing.

Exit the Jimmy Choo of this world that would have you believe that a pair of pumps with swarovski is the ultimate height of footwear, Bruno Frisoni is here to remind us what High Fashion is. With Galliano and McQueen, always up to challenge our sense of balance, Roger Vivier is more vivid than ever. Enjoy the look of it for a very few of us will be able to afford this extremely extravagant number.

Trend Spotting: Mongolian Fur

The red tartan trend is pervasive but the mongolian fur is also found everywhere. And I can only rejoyce to the idea that people will pick up on that one. Last year, I bought a simple pine green scarf made of mongolian fur at Marks & Spencer for a mere 15£. From that moment, I knew Mongolian fur would be the next trend.

It has now arrived and everyone can do their purchase to the level they wish. Not everyone can afford the Hermes Sheepskin jackets...

So here are a few selections for you of what is available in retail:

From the pictures:
Mongolian Sheepskin Fur Coat by Joseph: circa 660£
Mongolian Fur Bag Telescope by Christian Louboutin
Mongolian Fur Cushion Next: 15£
Tara Jarmon Red Fur Coat

Left: TopShop Scarves: 35£

the 15 New Clothes of Victoria

Thinking about Victoria Beckham’s style, fake orange tan and skimpy outfits immediately come to mind so when she announced she would develop her own line, everyone was a tad anxious to see the results. And they didn’t have long to wait: this New York Fashion week was the occasion chosen by the marketing people behind the DVB brand to unveil, in the luminous Salons of the Waldorf Hotel, the collection of dresses by Victoria Beckham.

The capsule collection, composed uniquely of 15 dresses is rather simple and without surprise as it emulates the styles sported by Victoria lately. The dresses are body fitting and the mid-calf length calls for high heels to achieve best effect. However, the material used - silk, wool, organza for instance- as well as the attention to details give to the collection gives a certain luxurious feel. One will notably find light internal corsetry and grosgrain ribbon outlining the waistline to ensure the diaphanous outfits' stability and to avoid any wardrobe malfunction, something one should always fear when it comes to strapless bustier dresses and Victoria certainly has some experience with the matter.

So, it is not without anticipating scepticism among the fashion professionals that Victoria - sporting for the occasion a new pixie do that almost upstaged the show – made sure we understand that she really is the designer claiming to have had no assistance in designing the line. The collection was “the dream of a lifetime” she said, adding "I’ve worked at it for 34 years” and “I always wanted to be a fashion designer. Then along came the Spice Girls which opened a lot of doors for me. And, let¹s be honest, closed a lot. But those days are over. I was never going to be the world’s best singer, but I hope I can be a good designer."

All in all, the collection is rather sans éclat and is very much inspired by the established and recognized fashion designers Mrs Beckham has been sporting of late. As a result, and mostly because of a certain homogeneity in shape and silhouettes, one could consider this collection as a signature style rather than the effect of a creative work. Also, the whole look shows an uncanny resemblance to the Roland Mouret creations, whose new label 19RM (see picture on the left) has been recently acquired by Simon Fuller, the Spice Girls manager who is also at the origin of the DVB brand. The Victoria Bekham blue dress seems to be made of the same material as the blue dress of the 19RM pre-fall 2008 collection while the sleeves of the Beckham black number reminds of the Galaxy( see left) dress that made Roland Mouret.

Her dresses are tasteful and rather classy and they even have a timeless accent to them but are not targeting the average woman. If the collection goes until size 14, one would doubt that anybody else than sylph-like women can wear these creations with grace.

The legitimacy of this collection in the fashion world remains questionable. Victoria Beckham dresses are in the upper range in terms of price; the cheapest dress will be retailed at 900€ in chic department stores, the most expensive ones being 1500€. That is the price of a Ready-to-wear Chanel dress yet, Victoria’s collection cannot compare with that of the genius of the Great Karl Lagerfeld. But prices nowadays are mostly an indication of the segmentation one wants to position its brand. It will thus be very interesting to follow the evolution of this seed of a brand and see whether, to the example of its instigator the Beckham branding can evolve towards the upper market. The DVB brand was originally destined to a mass market eager to emulate a footballer and his popstar wife’s lifestyle via cheap products such as perfumes and jeans. Nevertheless, Victoria is now aiming high and the brand already knows a small success among the buyers of great department stores. This being said, it is a great test and the fashion director of Harvey Nichols, Averyl Oates said it in not so many words: "It is sophisticated, easy and commercial" before adding "It will be interesting to see how the brand evolves". So, winning its place in the fashion world is not that fickle it seems and isn’t the proof that in the ever changing world of trends, a brand still won’t get credentials just the time of playing the song “Wannabe".

Those who Cannes and those who cannes not...

Even if the Hollywood crowd only recently discovered the glamour factor of the Cannes Festival, most of them immediately understood that they would have to compete with worldwide actors used to wear Haute Couture. The competition is fierce and thus, one really has to make an effort to be positively noticed. No effort is spared to dress the ladies as all the designers showcase their collection for the beauties to borrow for the event, from Chanel to Lanvin or Christian Dior, hairdressers, style is the order of the day.

Michelle Williams obviously didn't get the memo.

If she didn't hire a stylist, it is a big mistake when one has no taste. If she has indeed a stylist, she should definitely fire this incompetent... Other alternative she- or her PR people - decided to make herself noticed by contrast. The sad little outfit of hers makes me cringes and, while she probably succeeded in getting attention since she was featured in the DailyMail today, I wonder who would identify with any character she'd play but a very sad one on a movie...

The dress's collar is wrong for her and especially in such a colour. It looks dull on pale complexion. The saggy breasts- so not sexy on a 20- something- scream for proper support. Actresses with small breasts shouldn't underestimate the need for underwear... And worst are the ample sleeves that add a "droopy" caractere to the ensemble... And don't get me started on the Duffy duck feet -like shoes...

Really, she looks pathetic. Darling, this is the Cannes Festival, not some beauty pageant from Arkansass...

I suggest Ms Williams takes her inspiration from people with good stylists. Like Dita Von Teese whose complexion is similar to the one of Michelle, wearing a purple dress by Jean Paul Gaultier couture or, for a simpler appeal, a lovely summery number by Missoni...

So, which one do you prefer?

A bag to sCOOPER

I never prescribed any Anya Hindmarch bag before. I usually considered her bags to be inspired by other great designs yet sold at the same high price. I am not a great fan of boastfulness, and Hindmarch is not even recognized outside the UK.

This season the latest It Bag by Hindmarch, the Cooper is largely inspired by the Indy by Gucci. However, the Hindmarch bag will work in a large array of occasions for almost half the price... so, in the quest for the perfect day shoulder bag, I really am praising the Cooper...

This bag is perfect to be worn everyday -its creamy calf leather and handles make it an ideal day bag- yet it is stylish enough for evening dos... . The finishing is great and any colour looks fabulous: pale blue, white or beige/brown. Actually, I would recomment to buy it even more if you are not from the UK as you will show your stylishness while not necessarily attached to any label... And this is what IT Bags are at the moment, i.e. individual and unique style.

£675 at any of Anya Hindmarch outlets on the Anya Hindmarch Bond street shop, at Liberty's, Harrod's or in Notting Hill, or Selfridges' or online : www.anyahindmarch.com

When mommies dress like their daughters: the ultimate jouvence source?

There was a time when little girls wanted to dress like their mommies, trying on their shoes and make up. That time was when mums still led the way in terms of fashion. It seems however that ageism has taken its toll on women and they don't want to be perceived as "older".

The French Brand Comptoir des Cotonniers has used this principle noticing that a lot of mothers were shopping with their teenager daughters and that there was a market opportunitie. So much so in fact that their campaign has featured mothers and daughters wearing their clothes alltogether in an harmonious life where age is no issue.

Is it going a bit too far in "young-eism" when actually, some brands such as Bonpoint, a well renowned and pricey brand for the very young children of uber chic mommies ( Kate Moss notably dresses her daughter there) starts selling clothes for their mommies? Well, no. Apparently, this helps creating a sense of shared values and doing so, the mommie create a deep bonding with their little ones.

Thinking about it, I realised how true it was. Basically, in a psychological projection, the mommies often - and more and more so- dress their kids in a way that expresses their tastes and / or value they stand for. It comes as no surprise that one could see a lot of baby girls dressed in very suggestive ways but also, and more importantly that a lot of new brands emerged selling clothes that don't necessarily make their kids look like Little Lord Fontleroy... A lot of parents thinking that their kids are like small adults and that they can have personal style.

So, maybe it is only natural that childrenwear brands would, in a lopsided effect, develop ladieswear as well. Indeed, a lot of my mommies friends tend to buy clothes for their kids because, after having given birth, they don't always have the silhouette to wear the best of their wardrobe, so they splash on their little ones. My best friend, a chic and always perfectly groomed french woman buys exclusively Burberry, Bonpoint and Chloe for her daughter while she buys clothes at Zara and Gerard Darel for herself because of her baby weight, in a few months, in a bonding, she certainly will buy the same brands as her daughter... In the meantime, dressing her little girl gives her a sense of curious sense of rejuvenation.

So, is childrenswear the ultimate lifting?

STYLE SURGERY: HIGHLIGHTING A BLACK OUTFIT

Many fashionistas opt for black as a style signature. I cannot blame them, being myself a great fan of the dark... Not only does it suit most people but black also presents many advantages such as:

1. Easy: never goes out of style

2. Chic & cheap: black is elegant. One can find even lovely cuts and material in low costs retail chains such as Zara or H&M.

3. Practical: it allows to never wonder what will match... Black goes with everything and when one has no idea when late in the morning, black is a safe bet and a Plus: it leaves more time to make up and hair....

Black however shouldn't be boring, which often becomes the pitfall of such convenience...

For this, I propose the following looks:


Cashmere Dress by Obsid: 180Euros
Tribute bag par YSL: 700Euros
Booties Marc Jacobs : 515Euros
Gold Cuffs Van der Straeten: 200Euros

Black totally is emphasized by accessories. Personally, in this case, I would avoid heavy earrings, diamond - or swarovski crystal - studs would be ideal.
The double cuff is very chic and gives an art gallerist vibe to the ensemble...

At last, the beige boots give the outfit the possibility to be worn at work as well for a - well deserved- drink after work.

DRESS FOR SUCCESS

There is no French equivalent to the expressions "Dress for success" or "Look the part" but of all French candidates to presidential elections in France last May, Segolene Royal, as the unique serious female runner should have been the very one to grasp the significance of style as part of the message she was sending to millions through various medias with her clothes only...

If the defeatof Miss Royal cannot be devolved upon her sartorial mistakes, there is a possibility they hold a responsibility. France being the country of Haute Couture, of plethora of internationally renowned and prestigious fashion houses, its president should represent the best of it in terms of image. Being a socialist candidate, she probably assumed that wearing Hermès or Chanel would not help acquire a rather low class electorate. There are, however, plenty of alternatives in terms of fashion segmentation and even within the Paule Ka and Irene Van Ryb - her favorite brands during the campaign- there were better and cleverer choices to do.

In the above pictures, I made a comparison between what was and what could have been in a photomontage. Opting for ultra conservative and loose - understand with NO STRUCTURE - clothes was not helping in a campaign where message of hope for a France turned towards more modern times was an essential one. Instead, her style expressed restriction and recession.

Although Segolene Royal is still very fit, she decided to wear clothes that accentuate her age without giving more authority to her image: loose skirts emphasizing her bottoms in an unflattering way, notably because of their length unecessarily increasing the calves and ankles sizes, (too) short jackets with wide shoulders pads, hair too natural, her style screams of absence of control and French people couldn't trust what they were seeing to control the country when she cannot exude of confidence herself.

Mme Royal had better rethink her communication strategy. I would be happy to help, starting with few suggestions in photomontages...

Let me know your thoughts: for how much do you think style actually counts in professional success? Do you think Segolene Royal should have cared more about her style?

The Cocktail Dress vs baby doll

If there was one cocktail dress to buy this season, I would go for this Sonia Rykiel Number. The cut, the flowers detailing, the length, the material, everything screams "stylish"and "timeless".

Sonia Rykiel seems to be inspired by the 1920s but adds a modern twist to her collection which more women should be inspired from... This current trend of Baby doll dresses which, I reckon are comfortable, don't do the trick when it comes to be stylish and remarkable.

This dress suits many occasions such as New Years Eve but also any occasions such as weddings with a long collar free coat and a tiny hair piece.

The cleavage is very low but could be sewn in...

LONDON FASHION WEEK: Award to Top (Marketing) Shop

There was a time when Fashion week was the occasion to show great creativity and disruptiveness (Chanel, Balenciaga, Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen, Viktor & Rolf, Giles Deacon) but the interest for fashion by the majority has led the fashion week to showcase a bit of everything. Many understood the marketing value of the fashion catwalks. After all, if Haute Couture doesn't make money but feeds sales of the Ready-to-wear and cosmetics, the fashion show could be used as marketing for other non descript brands and Top Shop management is not one to be lost on the marketing... Well known to make loads of profits by copying fashion designers' creations, Top Shop now also has its fashion catwalk which goes hand in hand with its collaboration with the top model Kate Moss. The Kate Moss collection for Top Shop aims at featuring items copied from her own wardrobe, a wardrobe constituted a lot by top designers.

So, to sum up, Top Shop aims at positionning itself closer to the High Fashion and give a sensation of edginess and fierceness. Hence their presence at the London Fashion Week, featuring new up and coming designers. Unfortunately, if it looks great in paper - and it does, after all, the mention in newspaper is worth millions of advertisement - the result in clothing is rather disappointing: Plain vests and cropped shapeless trousers. But it does make sense: after all, had they copied from the greatest designs, everyone would have protested and complained while doing nothing extravagant if not having a catwalk, no bad thing could be said.

I have to say that, if Top Shop is not great in designs, the grand designs of their communication team is very creative and worth the creativity of the greatest designers.

LONDON FASHION WEEK

At the London Fashion week, all eyes were supposed to be on Christopher Kane's 3rd collection. After his graduation Show at St Martin's School of Art, the designer became the new favorite of London for as long as 3 seasons...

In this spring2008 collection, floaty chiffon ruffles, slouchy tops and snake print vests in washed colour annuled the disruptiveness of his previous shows. And rumour says the fashion prodigal son lpuzzled the fashion crowd...

It is very interesting because this collection lacks of luster, of imagination and disruptiveness. However, it usually takes a few months before stylists get what is so cool about it. I reckon that, if the collection is not a big hits, a lot of ruffles might be seen on the fashion scene anyway...

Just wait and see.

Designer to follow

I was told about a watch maker based in Isle of Wight who, in 60 years of career had crafted 60 watches only.

To the example of this english watch maker, Garnazelle is not prolific a jewel designer but to arrive to such beauty might require a lot of thinking...

These beautiful "Boules d' Amour" ( "Love Balls"in english) are absolutely gorgeous and can be found in a variety of stones: onyx, catseyes, pink quartz etc.

So far, the designer is only to be found in France but I am sure such sexiness is bound to cross the channel or the ocean...

WHAT TO BUY ON THE HIGH STREET: SHOES

Style is not a matter of financial means. Some people are born with it and can make a £20 dress look very chic, surpassing any label around.

Thanks to good purchasing skills, high street brands sometimes do wonders in terms of line and proportions. This is why we are launching this new "chronicle": what to buy on the high street.

Today's post will be about these brogued T-Bars from Dune ( on the left) . At £75, they give the for example 365£ Sandie Jimmy Choos a good run for their money ( black shoes on the right)

Why are they worth buying:
1. The height: from the design, it is quite obvious the arch support will have the perfect curve.
2. The sole: it is large enough to make the shoes NOT to resemble a cradle which makes any woman look ridicule.
3. The colour: the fauve colour is a hit and it is just discreet enough to be worn with anything dressed up or casual such as jeans.
4. The shape at the base of the T-Bar is lovely and they will lengthen the legs and make any ankle look thinner
5. The heels: although not delicate, they fit the design perfectly, since being in proportion with the general design of the shoes.

The difference with Jimmy Choos which still is obvious in the sense where the Choos are more refined. Their front sole is flat and there are refined details and materials but with these T-Bars, Dune shows they can do well.
Don't miss them, these are keepers. You won't regret buying them.

Black in White

It is quite rare nowadays to spot a very elegant or stylish woman on the streets. When it happens, it often is in the posh areas of London, the pricetag being so obvious though, it doesn't really express natural elegance.

Last night, I had to stop to take an appreciative look at a beautifully stylish woman.

She was wearing a toffee cashmere top with fluid wide leg trousers (wool Crêpe), a beautiful silk chiffon scarf and matching contemporary jacket. On her feet, creamy flat ballerina shoes. The effect was stunning and probably even more so because the woman was black.

I realised that among my african friends, rare were those who wore white/beige which is a shame because it suits them so much! This is why I did this little photomontage on the left with famous beautiful black women ( Iman, Tyra Banks, Liya Kebede) and dressed them with white clothes to illustrate how classy and elegant they are...

It also reminded me of that Gucci ad with the baby...
I wish I saw more black women work on this look because it truly is inspirational!

Top at the bottom

Recently bashed by the press for having put on weight, Tyra Banks, ex Victoria's secrets model and now producer of America's Next Top Model, has shed the extra pounds for the New York Fashion week... Or at least, most of it.

I like Tyra: she has a sort of candor in a cynical business. This sort of candor however, is quite unexpected in terms of fashion! She, who gives advices to Top Model Wannabes, should know better, and especially, how to hide the remnants of the nachos bingeing located on her thighs and arms...

Tyra certainly looks lovely but she could look perfect if she had followed simple rules:
1. The dress's length: Tyra's thighs are much bigger than her - very thin- calves. She should have gone for a knee length dress... Since the dress is A-Shaped, it wouldn't make it less sexy.

2. The arms: it is tricky with arms, especially when left falling along the body! She should either strike a pose with both arms on the hips OR wear sleeves, even short. It is a matter of proportion. The best would be sleeves up to the elbow. Elongates the upper arm...

3. The shoes: although she made a right choice by wearing chunky models, she however, should have chosen black or off white, to recreate a balance in the silhouette...

Maybe she could ask some help from the professionnal fashionistas such as Nicole Richie, who almost never fails on the red carpet... Irony! Irony!

WOMAN OF STYLE

It seems, as far as pictures tell, that Eva Mendes never fails to look stylish. Not only is she always appropriately dressed ( relaxed and yet stylish for laid back events, beautiful in more exclusive situations) in all circumstances, but she never is wrong when shot in everyday's life.

Here she is sporting wide leg jeans ( Dolce&Gabbana?) before it even was 'In".
I am enclosing a few pictures to enjoy a true style icon!

STYLE SURGERY: CURVY & STYLISH

Flipping though the pages of an old magazine, I came upon a heading dedicated to "Curvacious women". The article was illustrated of a so-called Size+ model, who looked rather " normal" to me but never mind, magazines won't go too far, will they.

It is quite clear that rounder women are getting in vogue, and I personally find them more colourful and having much more presence than many frail girls.

However, my curvacious friends tell me that, not only do they find it difficult to hit clothes on the high street retail that fit them but more importanly, because of a self image issue, as per the ideas that are vehiculated that one has to be deadly thin to deserve beautiful clothes, they find it hard to dress in stylish way.

I might not be THE asbolute style reference but there are a few principles that are common to most stylish and not so thin women :

1. Pure lines: minimalist and well tailored garments are the best ally to curves. Cocoon shapes this winter are ideal because it celebrates the curves and it is superb. The Calvin Klein number above might be expensive but soon, it will be copied in all Zara and Cie...

One might retort that it will create a huge mass of fabric but I disagree: voluptuous women are not to be hidden, they should expose their curves and the fact that they are visible. Moreover, the wide shapes help to create balance in the spatial contours of the silhouette. Don't hesitate to wear oversized attributes such as collars, pockets, etc.

2. Avoid fabric with too much spandex that hug curves too much and especially in indesirable spots, even forming exaggerated rolls... Privilege crisp materials, cottons, wool etc.

3. Work on spatial balance and contrasts: create symmetry and equilibrium in shapes. If the curves are mainly located around the hips/ stomach, favour trapeze shapes and / or emphasize the waist with cinched products or belts. Hourglass is sexy. If curves are also on the top: wear V-Neck tops or enhancing V cleavages. Groom this head carriage!

Work on contrast in terms of colours as well as shape.

4. Accessorize and don't be afraid to do so: wear chunky jewellery, again, it is a matter of equilibrium: small chains and tiny details will only emphasize the curves whereas big necklaces such as multistrands or heavy beads create a portly effect. If wearing heavy earrings, wear no necklace and vice versa. Wear cuffs. Wear oversize shades. Wear colourful accessories and notably, beautiful and elegant motives ( If you cannot afford the Hermes stoles and other high end brands, ask your family to gather for really high quality presents) .

5. Groom your face and don't be shy about - even original but classy- hairdos... You are not tiny, be stunning and be noticeable. Do wear make up.

6. Buy wide leg trousers: all types. Make sure you don't buy low cuts which, even on skinny girls can cut the hips, thus a terrible muffin-top effect! Wide trousers can be 3/4 long, denim, wool etc. Always choose great cuts.

7. Invest in good underwear: Round and firm breasts always force envy. But heavy breasts can also fall, make sure your bras don't cut in the middle. Make sure they are the right size (70% of women wear bras of a wrong size) . When going out, why not wear shapewear? Spanx for instance makes very minimalistic briefs and waistshaper.

8. Wear wraps tops. A bit of drape at the front helps to hide the tummy. Kimonos are a lovely alternative

9. Cinch: wear wide belts on long sweaters or shirts.

10. Don't wear tiny shoes. Make sure your shoes don't have a "craddle effect" sole, it makes the curves look slightly childish which is not stylish! Really, dead serious on that one!

11. Skirts: A-shape either under the knee or to the ankle with flat shoes.