25 February 2007

IS GUCCI IN A STYLISH SLUMP?

I was talking earlier about Gucci and, since today marked the last day of Fashion week in Milan, I realised I should say a few word about my opinion of Gucci style.

When Frida Giannini was appointed Creative director, I was anxious to see what she would come up with. I was very disappointed and although it doesn't really matter that I personally didn't like the new Gucci style, I believe it objectively was too funky/ slutty and I didn't really appreciated the sternness of these cuts (I still shiver when I think of THAT "Abba-ish" gold suit! ).

However, I do believe that even if attractive to a young crowd, it
was pretty obvious that Gucci had lost its lush, its glamour and edgy chicness. My personal feeling is that Gucci somehow do no longer belong to the exclusive club of the " Grands de la Mode " such as Chanel, Balenciaga, Dior, Hermes, Yves St Laurent, Valentino, Dolce & Gabbana etc which aim is to drive Fashion to its highest level.

After an almost psychedelic period, Gucci comes back to black and Grey but there is nothing great about it, instead, it is sad and boring. The dresses are messy and the minimalistic items are not interesting enough to stand out. There is a kind of "Hawai Pearl Harbour Bar songstress wearing dresses with Japanese inspired fabric crosses German lady in Vienna with black
opaque wool and low quality tights" inspiration which is not very identifiable and which is not outstanding enough to be remarkable. It is another Gucci collection I don't look up to...

Gucci used to lead the fashion scene in the 2000s but it seems it is now far behind in terms of trends. If one looks at the Fall 2007 collections, one realises how little exalting the Gucci clothes are and howinspired by others, it actually is. No one could deny the last year's Yves St Laurent Rive Gauche influence in its main lines and cuts and accessory belts ( as featured on the left, with a model by YSL Fall 2006 and right Gucci Fall 2007), the Balenciaga inspiration in some of the cuts and especially wedge footwear. The Bermuda shorts and cropped trousers were all the rage last year even in retail... There is no doubt about it Gucci is two seasons later than everybody else.

This probably won't harm them the slightest and only the sales are relevant: the Olsen twins featured the Balenciaga boots so much that it only has come to the conscience of the public that these shoes are covetable... They will now buy the Gucci's. After all, when other move on to next level, it is sometimes wise to walk into their steps and pick up the left overs.
Having been a huge fan of wedges for years , I will probably get the Gucci's. But Gucci indeniably lost it identifiable identity with Tom Ford. Hence the very wide variations of Frida's collections. Some people may see great talent - and rightfully so- but a Fashion houses either need a conducting thread which remains in houses such as Lanvin, YSL, Balenciaga, Hermes or a very strong designer such as John Galliano to perpetuate the lines. I am no specialist, as I said, I sometimes don't understand Fashion but it my own conviction that Frida needs to find a style identity...
So if Gucci is in a Stylish Slump, we sooner or later will find out in their future financial reports and you will either hear from me, or not because I was wrong....

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